Day 1 - Baddeck to Ingonish
- Baddeck
- Englishtown Ferry
- Kelly's Mountain Viewpoint
- St. Ann's Bay Lookoff
- Cape Smokey Gondola
- Ingonish Beach
A year-round road trip through Cape Breton Highlands - 3, 5 & 7-day itineraries, driving times, where to stay and eat, ferry caveats, and a full fall-colors section for the world's most scenic drive
The Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia is one of the world's great road trips - a roughly 298 km loop through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, along windswept coastline, over mountains, and through Acadian, Gaelic, and Mi'kmaw communities. It is most famous for fall colors, and October here is genuinely spectacular - but the Trail rewards visitors in every season, from summer beaches and whale watching to spring waterfalls and winter solitude. This guide covers all of it: what the route is, how to drive it (segment by segment, clockwise or counter-clockwise), when to go, where to sleep and eat, the Englishtown ferry and tide caveats, and a complete fall-colors section with peak timing, itineraries, and 17 stops along the way.
The Cabot Trail Lookoff, Baddeck boardwalk, and Alexander Graham Bell site are fully wheelchair accessible. See our Wheelchair-Accessible Travel Guide for details.
Starting June 26, 2026, Parks Canada requires a timed parking reservation to hike the Skyline Trail during peak season. Reservations cost $13 and are available online via the Parks Canada reservation system. There are 4 timed entry slots per day with approximately 50 parking spaces per slot. Book in advance - slots sell out quickly during summer and fall foliage season. A separate park entry pass is also required.
Summer and fall 2026 visitors can get free admission to Cape Breton Highlands National Park - which the Cabot Trail runs straight through - plus a 25% discount on park campground reservations with the Canada Strong Pass, valid June 19 β September 7, 2026. Because the trail's most scenic stretch is inside the national park, the pass is a meaningful money-saver, especially for families and campers. Get the pass at Parks Canada β Canada Strong Pass (opens in a new tab).
Budgeting the loop? The 298 km drive plus Cape Breton Highlands entry and gas add up — our Trip Cost Calculator breaks down fuel, park fees, and accommodation for your Cabot Trail route. Comparing overnight bases? Our places to stay in Nova Scotia guide ranks the best base in every region.
What the Cabot Trail is, where it is, and why it is the signature drive of Nova Scotia.
The Cabot Trail is a roughly 298 km (185 mile) scenic highway that loops through the northern third of Cape Breton Island. It is Nova Scotia Route 30, named (loosely) for explorer John Cabot, who made landfall in Cape Breton in 1497. The Trail climbs over the Cape Breton Highlands, threads Acadian and Gaelic fishing villages, and crosses Cape Breton Highlands National Park - about 30 km of the most celebrated scenery on the loop.
Northern Cape Breton Island, in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia. Most visitors start and end the loop in Baddeck, about a 4 to 5 hour drive from Halifax along the Trans-Canada Highway. Sydney, Cape Breton's largest town with the nearest airport (J.A. Douglas McCurdy Sydney Airport), is about an hour east of Baddeck.
Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, and Lonely Planet have all named the Cabot Trail among the world's most beautiful road trips. The combination of mountains, sea, and forest - with the road clinging to cliffs above the Gulf of St. Lawrence - is matched in North America only by the Pacific Coast Highway and Going-to-the-Sun Road. In October, the fall foliage makes it arguably the single most scenic drive on the continent.
The full Baddeck-to-Baddeck loop is about 298 km. Pure driving time is 5 to 7 hours, but that ignores every viewpoint, hike, and lobster shack - plan on a minimum of 2 to 3 days, with 5 days the sweet spot. Here is the segment-by-segment breakdown.
Total: ~298 km, roughly 5 to 7 hours of driving, plus the Englishtown cable ferry crossing and however long you choose to linger. The road is a paved two-lane highway throughout, with steep grades (up to 11%) over French and MacKenzie Mountains and tight curves on the western cliff section. It is fully passable for cars and RVs from May through October; winter driving is a different proposition - see the Winter section below.
Quiet roads, thundering waterfalls, and the green Highlands waking up
Spring is the Cabot Trail's secret season. The crowds have not arrived, the rivers and waterfalls - Uisge Ban Falls near Baddeck, North River Falls, the falls at Black Brook Cove - are at full spring-runoff flow, and the highlands turn a vivid, luminous green as the hardwoods leaf out through June. Whale-watching boats out of Pleasant Bay start running in mid-May as the whales follow the ice edge south. Most restaurants and lodges in Cheticamp and Ingonish remain closed until the Victoria Day weekend in late May, and some not until mid-June, so call ahead. Daytime temperatures climb from around 8Β°C in April to 18Β°C by late June, but highland mornings can still drop near freezing into early May. Pack layers, waterproof boots, and a rain shell - spring weather is changeable and the highlands can see snow flurries as late as mid-May.
Best for: Waterfall hunters, photographers chasing soft light and empty lookoffs, birders (spring migration peaks in May), and anyone who wants the Trail to themselves.
Peak season - every ferry, tour, beach, and lobster supper is running
July and August are when the Cabot Trail is in full swing. Every restaurant, whale-watching outfit, kayak tour, and park facility is open, the water at Ingonish Beach and Black Brook Cove reaches its warmest (a still-bracing 16 to 20Β°C), and the days are long - sunset isn't until nearly 9 p.m. in late June. This is the best window for whale watching out of Pleasant Bay (pilot, minke, and sometimes humpback whales), puffin tours from Bird Islands near Baddeck, and swimming at the park's supervised beaches. Summer 2026 visitors get free admission to Cape Breton Highlands National Park with the Canada Strong Pass (June 19 to September 7). The trade-off is crowds: accommodation prices peak, the Skyline Trail parking reservation sells out, and you will share the lookoffs with tour buses. Book lodgings and the Skyline reservation weeks ahead. Expect daytime highs of 22 to 26Β°C, occasionally warmer, with sea fog rolling in along the western coast on some mornings.
Best for: Families, beach days, whale watching, puffins, long daylight hours, and first-time visitors who want everything open and running.
Fall colors on the Cabot Trail typically peak between late September and mid-October. Higher elevations change first, with coastal areas peaking slightly later. Here's a week-by-week breakdown to help you time your trip.
For the prepared and the adventurous - a silent, snow-draped Highlands
Winter transforms the Cabot Trail into something few visitors ever see. The Cape Breton Highlands under snow are starkly beautiful, and the silence on the Skyline boardwalk with no one else around is unforgettable. But winter here demands respect. The northern highlands section between Cheticamp and Pleasant Bay crosses French Mountain and MacKenzie Mountain, and after a storm it can be hazardous or temporarily closed - check Nova Scotia's 511 road conditions before you go and carry winter tires, a full tank of fuel, and an emergency kit. Most restaurants, tours, campgrounds, and accommodations along the loop close from November through mid-May. What stays open: Baddeck and Sydney as year-round hubs, Ski Cape Smokey near Ingonish for downhill skiing and snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and winter hiking on park trails (the park itself never closes, though services are minimal), and coastal storm watching along the western cliffs. Whale-watching and the Englishtown cable ferry do not run in winter. If you want solitude and are fully self-sufficient, winter is extraordinary. If you want services and ease, come back between June and October.
Best for: Self-sufficient winter drivers, cross-country skiers and snowshoers, storm watchers, photographers, and anyone seeking true solitude.
Three options for every schedule. The 3-day highlights tour, the ideal 5-day experience, or the full 7-day immersion. Select a tab to see the daily breakdown. Traveling with kids? Our Family travel guide β covers pacing, stroller-friendly stops, and kid-approved activities along the route.
The minimum for a meaningful Cabot Trail experience. Fast-paced but covers the essential highlights - Cape Smokey, Skyline Trail, and the Margaree Valley. You'll wish you had more time.
The sweet spot. Five days lets you hike, whale watch, explore villages, and actually relax. Enough time to detour, linger at viewpoints, and catch a sunset or two. This is the itinerary most visitors wish they'd followed.
The full immersion. Seven days to experience everything the Cabot Trail and Cape Breton have to offer - from the Fortress of Louisbourg to remote Meat Cove, with whale watching, whisky tasting, fiddle music, and every hiking trail worth doing. The trip of a lifetime.
One of the most-discussed questions on travel forums: which direction should you drive the Cabot Trail? Both are spectacular. Here's the honest breakdown from the Reddit threads, travel forums, and local knowledge.
For first-time visitors, we recommend counter-clockwise - it's the direction most locals and tour guides prefer. You'll get the cliff-side lane on the dramatic western climbs, easier access to look-offs and pull-offs, and fewer crowds. For photographers chasing fall foliage, clockwise puts the western highlands in golden afternoon light. And if you have two days? Drive it both ways - the same loop in different directions feels like two completely different trips.
From Baddeck to Meat Cove and back, here are the essential stops along the 298 km loop - each with a description, what makes it special in fall, and driving distance from the previous stop.
Start / End
Gateway to the Cabot Trail. Charming village on the shores of the Bras d'Or Lakes. Home to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum and excellent restaurants. The natural starting and ending point for your loop.
25 km from Baddeck
A 5-minute cable ferry crossing the St. Ann's Bay (FREE - tolls removed in 2021). The ferry runs continuously in season and is a fun experience - watch for bald eagles overhead during the crossing.
15 km from ferry
Panoramic viewpoint overlooking St. Ann's Bay and the Bras d'Or Lakes. One of the first wow-moment viewpoints on the eastern Cabot Trail. Excellent in fall with colors sweeping down to the water.
10 km from Kelly's Mountain
Home to the Gaelic College of Celtic Arts and Crafts - learn about Cape Breton's Scottish Gaelic heritage. Watch weaving demonstrations and explore the cultural centre. Quick stop worth 30β45 minutes.
20 km from St. Ann's
Nova Scotia's only gondola - an 8-minute ride to the summit with panoramic ocean and highland views. In fall, the colors are extraordinary from above. Allow 3β4 hours for the full experience including hiking and kayaking.
10 km from Cape Smokey
Sandy beach backed by the Cape Breton Highlands. The Middle Head Trail offers a stunning peninsula hike with ocean views on both sides. Home to the Highlands Links golf course and Atlantic beach.
5 km from Ingonish
The eastern entrance to the national park - dramatic coastline, old-growth forest, and fall colors cascading down the mountainsides to the Atlantic. Entry fee required ($10.00/adult/day or Parks Canada pass).
20 km from park entrance
A sheltered beach with a waterfall flowing onto the sand. One of the most photogenic spots on the Cabot Trail, especially in fall when the waterfall is framed by colorful foliage. Short walk from the parking area.
35 km from Black Brook
A picturesque fishing village with a lighthouse. Grab fresh lobster at the harbour. The drive here hugs the dramatic northern coastline. Watch for whales offshore.
40 km from Neil's Harbour
The whale watching capital of Cape Breton. Zodiac tours operate MayβOctober for minke, pilot, and sometimes humpback whales. The Rusty Anchor restaurant is a beloved local stop. Dramatic mountain-to-sea scenery.
15 km from Pleasant Bay (gravel road)
One of the most remote and dramatically beautiful spots in Nova Scotia. A gravel road leads to a tiny community perched on cliffs overlooking the ocean. Not for the faint of heart, but the views are unforgettable. Essential detour.
30 km from Pleasant Bay
The crown jewel of Cape Breton hiking - a 7.2 km loop trail through boreal forest to a dramatic headland with views over the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In fall, the surrounding hillsides are a patchwork of color. Allow 2β3 hours. Boardwalk sections protect fragile ecosystem.
40 km from Skyline Trail
An Acadian fishing village famous for hooked rugs, French-Acadian culture, and fresh seafood. Les Trois Pignons museum tells the Acadian story. The western entrance to Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Excellent restaurants and artisan shops.
25 km from Cheticamp
One of the best panoramic viewpoints on the western Cabot Trail - sweeping views of the Margaree Valley and highlands. A short drive off the main trail but absolutely worth the detour. Jaw-dropping in fall.
30 km from Cap Rouge
The heart of Cape Breton fall colors - rolling hills, river valleys, and farms blanketed in reds, oranges, and golds. Home to the famous Normaway Inn and some of the island's best fiddle music sessions. This is the postcard Cabot Trail.
15 km from Margaree
A peaceful roadside park with picnic areas and a small lake reflecting the surrounding fall colors. A perfect spot for a picnic lunch and a leg stretch before the drive back to Baddeck.
50 km from Lake O'Law
An outdoor living history museum on the shores of the Bras d'Or Lakes, recreating 200 years of Scottish Gaelic life in Cape Breton. Eleven historic buildings, costumed interpreters, and stunning lake views. Allow 2 hours.
Accommodation along the Cabot Trail ranges from historic lodges to cozy B&Bs and wilderness camping. Book early for September and October - fall foliage season is peak demand. For something different - lighthouses, yurts, and glamping - browse our Unique accommodations β picks across Nova Scotia.
The gateway village. Inverary Resort on the waterfront, charming B&Bs, and waterfront inns. Best selection of restaurants and shops on the trail. $120β250/night.
Hub Town Β· $120β250/nightCape Smokey townhouses and Ingonish beach cottages offer the closest stays to the national park. B&Bs and vacation rentals nearby. Book months in advance for fall. $150β400/night.
Cottage / Townhouse Β· $150β400/nightRemote waterfront cottages and a small inn. Basic but perfectly located for whale watching and accessing Meat Cove. Limited options - book early. $100β200/night.
Cottage / Inn Β· $100β200/nightAcadian inns and B&Bs in a vibrant fishing village. More affordable than Ingonish with excellent restaurants and artisan shops. Good base for the western highlands. $80β200/night.
Inn / B&B Β· $80β200/nightThe Normaway Inn is a beloved countryside retreat with river views and evening fiddle music. Cottages and B&Bs dot the valley. Fall colors right outside your window. $100β250/night.
Country Inn Β· $100β250/nightParks Canada campgrounds at Broad Cove, Ingonish Beach, and Cheticamp. Front-country sites with basic facilities. Fall camping means fewer bugs and cool, crisp nights. $25β50/night. For more on pitching a tent across the province, see our Nova Scotia camping guide β.
Camping Β· $25β50/nightThe best food on the Cabot Trail is hyper-local: lobster landed that morning, Acadian seafood chowder, fresh mussels from the Bras d'Or, and roadside blueberry everything. Note that most of these spots are seasonal - outside the May-to-October window, options shrink dramatically. For the full restaurant picture, browse our Halifax dining guide for the drive up, and the Nova Scotia culinary trails to extend the food trip.
Yellow Muir Cafe (seasonal bistro), The Freight Shed Tavern, and Charlene's Bayside Restaurant for lobster.
Local food stopThe Cape restaurant at the gondola summit (open in gondola season) for the best view with your lunch.
Local food stopThe Neil's Harbour Harbourfront for fresh lobster right at the lighthouse; grab a lobster roll to go.
Local food stopThe Rusty Anchor - a beloved roadside stop for seafood chowder and whale-watching-trip meals.
Local food stopMeat Cove Beach Campground kitchen and the Meat Cove Village Store - the only options at the end of the gravel road, and all the better for it.
Local food stopLa Gabriel Restaurant (Acadian and seafood), the Cheticamp restaurants along the harbour, and fresh lobster direct from the wharf.
Local food stopThe Dancing Goat Cafe (6289 Cabot Trail) for lunch and baking, and the Normaway Inn dining room with evening fiddle music.
Local food stopTwo ferries and the Gulf of St. Lawrence tides shape the practical logistics of a Cabot Trail trip. Here is what to know before you drive.
The 5-minute cable ferry across St. Ann's Bay at Englishtown is free (tolls were removed in 2021) and saves a long detour. It runs continuously from roughly mid-May to mid-October, but it is seasonal - outside those months the ferry is hauled out and you must drive around via the Trans-Canada through Little Narrows. In peak summer and on fall foliage weekends the queue can be 30 to 60 minutes; build slack into your day. Watch for bald eagles overhead while you wait.
If you are extending your trip to Newfoundland, Marine Atlantic's year-round car ferry sails from North Sydney (just east of Baddeck) to Port aux Basques and Argentia. It does not serve the Cabot Trail loop directly, but North Sydney is the natural jumping-off point before or after you drive the Trail. Book the Newfoundland ferry well ahead in summer.
The Cabot Trail borders the Gulf of St. Lawrence on the west and the Atlantic on the east - not the mega-tides of the Bay of Fundy. Tidal range here is roughly 1 to 2 metres, but it still matters: whale-watching and puffin tours out of Pleasant Bay and Bird Islands depart on tide-dependent schedules, tide pools at Black Brook Cove and along the Aspy fault coast are best at low tide, and the waterfall at Black Brook runs strongest after rain. Check local tide tables before planning beach walks and boat tours.
There are long stretches of the highland section - especially between Ingonish and Cheticamp - with no cell coverage and no gas stations. Fill up in Baddeck before you start, don't let the tank drop below half, and download offline maps (Google Maps or Maps.me) before you leave. Gas is available in Cheticamp, Ingonish, and Pleasant Bay but hours can be limited and prices run higher than in town.
The most common questions from Reddit, travel forums, and our readers - answered honestly.
Most Cape Breton locals and tour guides recommend counter-clockwise (Cheticamp side first). You get the cliff-side lane on the dramatic western climbs, easier access to pull-offs and look-offs, and fewer tour buses. Clockwise is better if you're chasing fall foliage photos in golden afternoon light, or if mountain driving makes you nervous. Honestly, both directions are stunning - if you have two days, drive it both ways for completely different experiences.
Expect spotty or no cell coverage through much of the Cape Breton Highlands, especially between Ingonish and Cheticamp on the northern section. Download offline maps (Google Maps or Maps.me) before you go. An eSIM from Airalo or Yesim with a Canada data plan is a smart backup for stretches where coverage exists. Don't rely on your phone for navigation or emergencies in the highlands.
Fill up in Baddeck before starting the loop. Gas stations are available in Cheticamp, Ingonish, and Pleasant Bay, but hours can be limited and prices are higher than in town. Don't let your tank drop below half. The 298 km loop has long stretches with no services - plan your fuel stops.
Layers are essential. September days can be warm (15β20Β°C) but mornings in the highlands can drop to 5Β°C or lower. Bring: warm jacket, rain shell, hiking boots, gloves, hat, camera with extra batteries (cold drains them faster), water bottles, and snacks. Binoculars are great for wildlife spotting. A full packing checklist is in our Plan Your Trip section below.
Minimum 3 days to see the highlights at a reasonable pace. 5 days is the sweet spot - you can hike, stop for photos, whale watch, and enjoy the villages without rushing. 7 days lets you fully immerse yourself with detours to Louisbourg, Glenora Distillery, and the Ceilidh Trail. Anything less than 3 days and you'll be driving more than experiencing.
Peak color typically occurs between late September and mid-October. The absolute best week varies year to year, but the first two weeks of October are the safest bet. Higher elevations peak first (late September), with coastal areas peaking slightly later (early to mid-October). See our peak timing chart above for the weekly breakdown.
Yes, but with caution. The Cabot Trail is a two-lane highway with some steep grades and tight curves, especially through the highlands. Large RVs should take it slow on the climbs and descents. Several campgrounds in Cape Breton Highlands National Park accommodate RVs. Check park campsite sizes before booking.
Yes - Cape Breton Highlands National Park is one of the best places in Nova Scotia to see moose. Early morning and dusk are the best times. The Cabot Trail between Cheticamp and Pleasant Bay, and the Skyline Trail area, are known moose corridors. Drive carefully at dawn and dusk - moose on the road are a serious hazard.
Yes - starting June 26, 2026, Parks Canada requires a timed parking reservation to hike the Skyline Trail during peak season. Reservations cost $13 and are available online via the Parks Canada reservation system. There are 4 timed entry slots per day with roughly 50 parking spaces per slot. Book in advance, especially for summer and fall foliage season, because slots sell out quickly. A separate park entry pass is also required.
It depends on what you want. July and August are peak season - every restaurant, tour, and ferry is running, the water is warmest at Ingonish and Black Brook, and whale watching is at its best out of Pleasant Bay, but crowds and prices peak too. September is the sweet spot for many travellers: warm days, fewer crowds, and the first hints of color. Early October is the busiest week of the year for fall foliage. Late spring (June) is quiet and green with waterfalls at full flow. Winter (December to March) is only for the adventurous - see the Winter section below.
Technically yes, but with big caveats. The northern highlands section between Cheticamp and Pleasant Bay crosses French Mountain and MacKenzie Mountain, and it can be hazardous or temporarily closed after snowstorms. Parks Canada plows the road but does not maintain it to summer standards, and there are long stretches with no services, no cell coverage, and no gas. Most restaurants, tours, and accommodations along the loop close from November through mid-May. If you drive it in winter, carry a full tank of fuel, winter tires, an emergency kit, and check road conditions on Nova Scotia's 511 system before you go. Base yourself in Baddeck or Sydney, which stay open year-round.
The full loop from Baddeck back to Baddeck is about 298 km. Pure driving time with no stops is roughly 5 to 7 hours depending on traffic, weather, and the cable ferry wait at Englishtown. But driving it without stopping misses the point - the scenery, hikes, and villages are the experience. We recommend a minimum of 2 to 3 days, with 5 days as the sweet spot. See the driving times and logistics section for a segment-by-segment breakdown.
No - the Cabot Trail is a provincial highway (Route 30) and you can drive the entire loop without paying a park fee. However, roughly 30 km of the most scenic stretch runs through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, and if you stop to hike, use a viewpoint inside the park, or visit a park facility, you need a park entry pass ($11.00/adult/day in 2026, or a Parks Canada Discovery Pass). Summer and fall 2026 visitors can get free admission with the Canada Strong Pass (June 19 to September 7). Driving straight through without stopping inside park boundaries does not require a pass.
Yes, and many cyclists consider it one of the best rides in North America. The steep grades over French Mountain and MacKenzie Mountain are a serious workout - expect climbs of 8 to 11 percent. Motorcyclists love the sweep of the western coastal section. Be aware that shoulders are narrow to nonexistent in places, summer traffic is heavy, and fog can roll in quickly along the coast. The best cycling windows are June and September, when traffic is lighter. Bike rentals and supported tours are available out of Baddeck and Cheticamp.
Ready to hit the road? Here's how to pull it all together - and how to weave the Cabot Trail into a bigger Nova Scotia adventure, from the Eastern Shore's 100 Wild Islands guide β to Tidal bore rafting guide β on the Bay of Fundy.
Target late September to mid-October for peak color. The first two weeks of October are the safest bet. Book accommodation as early as possible - fall is peak season on the Cabot Trail.
You need a car - there's no other way to experience the Cabot Trail. Book through for competitive rates. Reserve early for fall. Most visitors fly into Halifax and drive about 4 hours to Cape Breton; if you have a day or two to spare, our Best day trips from Halifax β can fill the gap before you head north.
Use our 3, 5, or 7-day itineraries above as your framework. Add or subtract stops based on your interests - hiking, photography, culture, or whale watching. For driving times between stops, scenic Cabot Trail legs, and gas-stop suggestions, build your route in our Road Trip Planner β. Note that the route includes the free Englishtown cable ferry crossing; our Ferry route planner β has current schedules and wait times.
Search . Baddeck and Ingonish fill up first in fall. Book at least 2β3 months ahead.
Cell coverage is unreliable in the highlands. Download Google Maps offline for the entire Cape Breton area, or use Maps.me. An helps where coverage exists.
The Cabot Trail passes through remote areas. covers medical emergencies, trip cancellation, and roadside assistance for your road trip.
Everything you need to know about visiting Cape Breton Island - the Cabot Trail, Louisbourg, Highlands, and more.
The park the Cabot Trail was built to cross - 26 trails, 8 campgrounds, moose and whales, and the 2026 Canada Strong Pass free admission.
New for 2026: a timed parking reservation is required to hike the Skyline Trail. Timeslots, costs, booking steps, and sold-out alternatives.
Cape Breton's legendary October music festival (Oct 9-17, 2026) lands right at peak color - ticket strategy, where to stay, and concert routes.
See Atlantic Puffins on Bird Island - Doneldas Puffin Boat Tours near Baddeck, a perfect Cabot Trail add-on.
Nova Scotia's only gondola ride on the Cabot Trail - summit views, hiking trails, kayaking, and mini golf.
Ingonish Beach is Cape Breton's top surf spot - combine a surf session with your Cabot Trail drive.
Budget-friendly adventures - hiking trails, scenic drives, beaches, and free attractions across the province.
Off-the-beaten-path destinations including secret Cape Breton spots most visitors miss.
Complete trip planning resources - itineraries, packing lists, border crossing info, and insider tips.
Peak autumn colors beyond the Cabot Trail - Annapolis Valley, Bay of Fundy, South Shore & the best leaf-peeping routes.